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April 15, 2008

The High Cost of “Cheap” Food

Crisis_opportunityAn Interview with John E. Ikerd

With a wealth of recent media attention focused on the concept of sustainable agriculture and the wild success of like-themed literature, such as Michael  Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma, some of us may be left wondering, what is sustainable agriculture and why does it matter to me? John E. Ikerd, author of the eye-opening book Crisis and Opportunity: Sustainability in American Agriculture was kind enough to answer this agricultural amateur’s questions on the definition, importance, and implications of a sustainable form of food production.

What is sustainable agriculture? How does it differ from our current agricultural system?

A sustainable agriculture must be capable of maintaining its productivity and value to society indefinitely. It must meet the needs of the present without compromising opportunities for the future. All productivity comes either from nature or society. Thus a sustainable agriculture must be ecologically sound and socially responsible in order to sustain its productivity, and thus be economically viable over time. Nothing lasts forever, so continual renewal and regeneration of both natural and societal resources are necessary for long run agricultural sustainability.

The conventional industrial approach to agriculture is very efficient in using both natural and human resources to produce things of economic value. But it does nothing to renew or regenerate the productivity of either nature or society needed to ensure that those of future generations will have adequate resources to meet their needs as well. Agriculture is currently depleting the natural and human resources upon which its productivity ultimately depends and thus is neither economically viable nor ecologically and socially sustainable over time.

Pardon the pun, but where does sustainable agriculture have its "roots?" Where, when, and how did it originate?

The modern concept of sustainable agriculture evolved from the natural foods movement, which was part of the "back to the earth" movement of the 1960s. The back to earth movement was basically a rejection of environmental pollution and human degradation associated with over-industrialization in all sectors of the economy and society. The rejection of chemical pesticides and fertilizers and the establishment of intentional communities that grew and marketed their own food were natural consequences of the rejection of industrial agriculture.

The organic food movement evolved from the earlier natural foods movement and is currently evolving into the local foods movement, in response to the "industrialization of organics." All of these food movements are part of the larger sustainability movement, which rejects industrialization because it lacks social, ecological, and economic integrity.

What are the major benefits of practicing sustainable agricultural methods?

People obviously benefit personally from reduced exposure to agricultural chemicals and biological wastes in their food, air, and water. There is also growing evidence that sustainably produced foods are more nutritious and healthful. In addition, the current trend toward sustainably grown local foods reduces fossil energy use, reduces greenhouse gas emissions, and supports local economies and communities, in addition to providing fresher and more flavorful foods.

However, the greatest benefit for both producers and consumers is that sustainable agriculture helps restore integrity to our relationships with each other and our relationship with the earth. We need healthy food because we are material beings, but we also need healthy families, communities, and societies because we are social beings. We need the sense of purpose and meaning in life that comes from stewardship of the earth because we are ethical and moral beings. The things we do to promote sustainable agriculture enhance the material, social, and spiritual dimensions of our quality of life.

What are the drawbacks/major costs?

Sustainably produced foods cost more than industrially produced foods because industrial producers don't pay the social and ecological costs associated with their production practices. It's simply cheaper to extract from nature and to exploit society than it is to renew and regenerate the natural and human resources that are used in the process of production. That being said, some sustainable producers today can create as much or more food at an equal or lower cost than can their conventional neighbors. And over time, as the productivity of resources in industrial farming operations are depleted, their productivity will fall and their costs will rise. So, the costs of sustainably produced foods in the future will actually be far lower than the costs of foods produced by industrial farmers on depleted and eroded soils with unskilled farm workers using fertilizers and pesticides made from high cost fossil energy. In the meantime, however, producers and consumers of sustainably produced foods must be willing to pay the full ecological, social, and economic costs of sustainable agriculture.

Another challenge of sustainable agriculture is to find enough people who are willing to learn to farm in this manner, which requires far more knowledge and understanding of soils and biological systems as well as more innovation, creativity, and entrepreneurship than industrial agriculture. However, we have more than enough bright, young people who would like to pursue a life in sustainable farming if they thought they could find a way to make a decent living. As the market for sustainably produced foods continues to grow, better economic opportunities will become more common, and there will be enough farmers to create a sustainable food system.

In your view, who can we look to as a model of a successful, sustainable agriculturalist? Is there an archetypal farm we can look to as a positive test case for this kind of system?

There are literally thousands of successful sustainable agriculturalists scattered all across the U.S. and around the world—and they are all different. There is no archetypal sustainable farm. Sustainable farming is a matter of farming according to fundamental ecological, social, and economic principles, rather than using any specific set of farming enterprises, methods, or practices.

Fortunately, it isn’t very difficult to find information on individual sustainable agriculture enterprises. A good place to start is the USDA SARE program’s New American Farmer publication, which profiles more than sixty sustainable farmers. It’s available at http://www.sare.org/publications/naf2/index.htm. Another good source is the New Farm Magazine’s “1000 Stories of Regenerative Agriculture” at http://www.newfarm.org/archive/1000_stories/1000_stories.shtml. Also, many states have developed profiles of local sustainable farmers, most of which can be found online.

Who seems most resistant to this type of farming? Who, on the other hand, seems most eager to adopt its methods? Why?

Those most resistant to sustainable agriculture are those who have benefited the most from industrial agriculture. This includes the agribusinesses that sell fertilizers, pesticides, fuel, and the other commercial inputs that industrial agriculture depends on for its productivity. Most commodity organizations are opposed to sustainable agriculture because sustainability requires enterprise diversity, rather than specializing on one particular commodity. Some of the major farm organizations, such as the Farm Bureau Federation, oppose sustainable agriculture because of their close political ties with agribusiness and commodity organizations. Many large-scale industrial farm operators oppose sustainable agriculture because it would force them to change the ways they farm, and industrial farming is still working for them.

Those most eager to adopt sustainable farming methods are those to whom industrial agriculture never made sense or never quite seemed to be socially or ethically right. This includes some conventional farmers, but far more operators of the small farms that have been marginalized and largely ignored during the industrial era of agriculture. Sustainable farming also appeals to many people who grew up on a farm, but left to find a better job and now would like to return to the farm. Perhaps most important, sustainable farming appeals to many young people who would like to make their life in farming. Unfortunately, many of these young people don’t have access to land, don’t have a lot of money, and are having problems finding a way to get started farming.

Is the key to sustainable agriculture a return to the small family farm? Has the American agricultural system simply become too industrial? Would it even be possible to do away with big "agribusiness?"

It probably is not impossible to farm sustainably on a large farm and certainly all small farms are not sustainable—regardless of how we might define large and small. That being said, it is easier to farm more sustainably on a smaller farm, other things being equal. Sustainable farming requires an intimate knowledge of the land and the biological systems that function on the particular farm being operated, as well as an understanding of what can and cannot be done sustainably in a particular climate, community, market area, etc. Sustainable farming is about maintaining healthy relationships with the land, one’s neighbors, and customers. It is difficult to really know, understand, and care about a whole lot of land or a whole lot of people, which effectively limits the size of truly sustainable farms.

In addition, most farms today are large because they have followed the standard industrial strategies of specialization, standardization, and consolidation of control, becoming bigger and bigger farms. If they abandoned those industrial strategies, as they must to become sustainable, they would have to become smaller in order to survive economically. As farms reduced their reliance on commercial fertilizers, pesticides, and fossil energy, agribusiness would become far less significant. In fact, significantly higher costs of fossil energy could foretell the end of big agribusiness.

How does your book, Crisis and Opportunity, compare to Michael Pollan's The Omnivore's Dilemma, which also delves into the importance of and challenges to a sustainable American agricultural system?

Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma is an excellent book and I recommend it to everyone who is interested in sustainable agriculture. Pollan is an excellent writer, reporter, and story teller and he uses these talents to convey an important message. He explains how we have encouraged the industrialization of America agriculture through government programs, including public research and education, and focuses on the unintended negative consequences for the American food system and American consumers.

Crisis and Opportunity is broader in scope, focuses more directly on sustainable agriculture, and uses a very different format. The book is a collection of essays, written over the span of more than a decade, that address the most important questions of the sustainable agriculture movement:  Why did it begin? What is it about? How can it succeed? Sustainable agriculture is diverse and thus cannot be captured in a few examples, stories, or studies. Over the past twenty years, I have made hundreds of presentations at various public events related to sustainable agriculture. In preparing for these events, I wrote several hundred papers. Over time, I refined my themes and messages, based on what seemed to communicate with my audiences and what seemed to make sense, particularly to farmers. This book presents a significant number of those essays, each addressing the whole of sustainable agriculture, but within a specific context and oriented toward a specific audience. Together, the essays tell a united, holistic story of a dynamic and diverse sustainable agriculture.

What are the immediate and long-term risks should we fail to adopt sustainable agricultural practices in this country?

The immediate risks involve threats to the natural environment and human health associated with industrial agriculture. The longer term risks are depletion of the productivity of the soil and other natural resources and the demise of family farms, degradation of rural communities, and continued disintegration of both rural and urban society. We risk destroying the ability of the earth’s biological and social systems to produce enough food—enough biological energy—to support the future of our society and of humanity. Over the long run, we simply cannot afford the cost of cheap, industrial food. 
   
Lately, there has been a great deal of media attention on the increasingly important role of organic, local agricultural products in the consumer market. But, as a consumer, it's often hard to determine which products to buy to support the quest for sustainable agriculture. How do we navigate the grocery store aisles to find the products that are best for us, our families, local communities, independent farmers, and the environment?

When shopping in conventional supermarkets, organic foods are probably a more sustainable choice than most conventional foods. If the supermarket features “locally grown” foods, check to see if there is any indication that they have been produced using more sustainable methods, such as organic, natural, pesticide free, hormone and antibiotic free, or humanely raised. Most local growers know their customers are looking for foods fundamentally different from industrial foods. Claims made for local foods are more likely to be valid because customers have the opportunity to check up on local growers, and local growers know it. The same basic reasoning holds for finding sustainably produced foods in restaurants. However, the fact that pictures of local farmers are hanging in a store or are on a menu doesn’t mean that the products offered for sale that day necessarily came from those farmers. You have to check the labels or ask the chef for verification.

The best way to know that you are buying sustainably produced foods is to buy from people you know personally, or at least know a lot about—from people you know and trust to produce foods that have ecological, social, and economic integrity.

*****

For more information on Crisis and Opportunity, please visit http://nebraskapress.unl.edu/product/Crisis-and-Opportunity,673343.aspx.

January 24, 2008

Linking in Lincoln: January 24, 2008

Remaking_the_north_american_food_sy Links to "Sustain" You

New this month from the University of Nebraska Press, Remaking the North American Food System: Strategies for Sustainability edited by C. Clare Hinrichs and Thomas A. Lyson examines the resurgence of interest in rebuilding the links between agricultural production and food consumption as a way to overcome some of the negative implications of industrial and globalizing trends in the food and agricultural system. With food and agriculture issues in the news on a daily basis, this book is especially timely and relevant. Whether you're well-versed on the issue or wondering what in the world sustainable agriculture is, we have a link to suit your needs.

Want to know what sustainable agriculture is all about? Check out Wikipedia for a brief overview at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_agriculture.

If you're interested in learning what everyday consumers can do to support the efforts of the sustainable agriculture community, visit the Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Web site for ideas.

How about supporting organic growers and vendors? Those looking for a directory of sellers carrying organic products should visit the Organic Consumers Association Web site where you can find a list of green and organic businesses selling everything from organic clothing to cosmetics.

Parents who want to get their children excited about sustainable agriculture efforts should visit sites like the one run by The Food Project of Massachusetts to learn how to educate their kids on the issue and sign up for volunteer projects.

Finally, the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service maintains an excellent site devoted to educating commercial agriculture professionals and the public on sustainable agriculture issues and current news.

That's all for this installment of LIL. Hope we've inspired you to learn more about the sustainable agriculture movement. And don't forget to check out Remaking the North American Food System for a wealth of information on the issue.

Continue reading "Linking in Lincoln: January 24, 2008" »

October 15, 2007

Looking Forward to Things Green

Green_plans I must admit that I was pretty excited to see that we're doing a new edition of Green Plans: Blueprint for a Sustainable Earth.  This edition won't be available until Spring, 2008, but here's some praise for the earlier editions:

"As we strive to implement sustainable development, we must share experience of how green plans can work, as Huey D. Johnson has done here. Green Plans is a necessary book that many of us need to read."—Gro Harlem Brundtland, Prime Minister of NorwayCrisis_opportunity

"This book is quite informative. It would be useful for anyone seeking (detailed) knowledge about designing a 'greenprint for sustainability.' . . . As one of the first books to deal with the development, implementation, and performance of green plans, this is certainly a welcome addition to the literature relating to the operationalisation and implementation of the concept of sustainability."—Environmental Politics

Green Plans: Blueprint for a Sustainable Earth revised and updated edition includes global green plans and an afterword by the author.  Although you have to wait until spring to read this edition, you can see the cover now. 

Yet another reason to look forward to spring is Crisis and Opportunity: Sustainability in American Agriculture by John E. Ikerd.  Economist and supporter of sustainable agriculture John E. Ikerd examines the issues that surround agriculture and the problems industrialized agriculture have created. 

In the meantime, you may want to check out Good Growing: Why Organic Farming Works by Leslie A. Duram, Roots of Change: Nebraska's New Agriculture by Mary Ridder.

_______________________________________


Bloggers Unite - Blog Action Day

August 30, 2007

Creating Public Change

Roots_of_change by Mary Ridder

Organic.  Marketing cooperative. Community owned. These and other words thrill some people and throw chills into others. They’re risky. They’re new (or very, very old). And they describe some of the creative activity described in Roots of Change whereby energetic folks are working hard to add value to their products in order to retain more of the profit dollars, wholesomeness, and control of their business’ destiny.

Some of the endeavors in Roots never made it, never even got off the ground. Others are a testament to tremendous drive and talent. All of these fascinating profiles can, however, serve as a teaching moment for writing forward-thinking public policy, developing wise legislation, or building a business with some great do’s and don’ts as a guideline.

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Mary Ridder is the author of Roots of Change.  Mary also runs Ridder Ranch with her family.  Read an earlier post she wrote for our blog here.

July 26, 2007

Cultivating Ideas

By Mary Ridder

Roots of Change was one of those What if? that became a book. It began as a concept to write a series of short articles concerning cooperatives developing in Nebraska thanks in part to the support of the Nebraska Cooperative Development Center's staff and board.

Personally this book was an inspiration because I met people from all over the state who dreamed and worked towards the reality. That's a scary, financially difficult, and unusual thing to do.
Roots_of_change_3
The first group I interviewed was the Arthur residents who dreamed of opening a grocery story in their small community following a devastating fire in their previous store. This was a huge undertaking which began with the creative thinking of students at Arthur High School and their business teacher. Don't tell teens that entrepreneurism is tough. They're up to the challenge, as was the entire Arthur area.

Today, senior citizens volunteer their time to pick up foodstuffs in Hyannis, Nebraska to stock the Wolf Den, Arthur's co-op grocery market. Teens stop at the store on their way to a game. Young moms pick up milk and other necessary items. It's a community hub, communications center, and it is critical to Arthur's future.

My home town of Callaway faced a similar challenge recently when we learned that our grocery store may have to close due to their wholesaler's minimum order increases. Our population of 650 would have been challenged should the store have closed.

Value-added businesses are central to the future of our rural communities and the Arthur Wolf Den is a terrific example of this.

___________________________________

You can learn more about Mary Ridder, author of Roots of Change: Nebraska's New Agriculture, on the Ridder Ranch website.


May 07, 2007

The Preservation of Fruit

By Sara Dickerman

It’s hard to read Jane Grigson’s Fruit Book without getting a little orchard fever. I was just about to send a $50 check in this morning to a stranger in Oregon. The Oregonian, named Nick Botner, grows hundreds of varieties of old apples, plus plums, cherries, and grapes. He was happy to pick a couple of apple trees out for me and send them along, and I then planned to plant them in the parking strip between the street and the sidewalk in front of our house. Too bad then, that, I waded into the city of Seattle’s tree-planting regulations--and right there among the prohibited vegetation were apple trees, the very icon of Washington agriculture. Fallen fruit, it seems, is a hazard and a nuisance on the sidewalks. Hazardous fruit! No wonder we all eat so badly these days—if fruit is considered a hazard and organic cheese crackers a healthy snack. My husband, it turns out, agrees with the city. While I’d envisioned gallons of homemade applesauce, dozens of pies, and lazy Sunday lunches of pork belly with apples (see JG’s Fruit Book, p 10), he predicted a pile of rotting apples beckoning all the yellow jacket wasps in the county toJane_grigsons_fruit_book come and buzz about. Had I planted my trees, and had they born fruit, the truth would have been somewhere in the middle. 

Reading (and rereading) Grigson inspires me to be not just a better cook, but a better procurer. That means of course visiting farmers markets for my fruits and veg, and signing up once again for a CSA; but Grigson also writes about old, soon-to-be-forgotten breeds of fruit that have a hard time surviving any commercial market and I want them! I want unruly mulberry trees, breathtaking peaches, old French apples and a treeful of glistening greengages (I do not have room in my muddy yard for them, though). I hate to think about missing out on a more delicious variety of fruit, especially apples, which are so good in pies (try Grigson’s blackberry apple pie, for example). On top of that there is a sense of history and cultural preservation that goes with caring for an uncommon--and old--species. It’s perhaps no surprise, but there are plenty of people out there who want to save old varieties of fruits—some colonial relics, some prized continental varieties, some promising hybrids from past decades. I started cruising charming fruit-nerd sites like this one and that, and anxiously paging through the useful website of this British Columbia orchard and the Trees of Antiquity catalog and, trying to figure out if I were more of a King David or a Calville Blanc kind of girl.

Anyway, thanks to city regulations, for the moment, my Johnny Appleseed efforts have been thwarted, but should you be curious about old fruit varieties, start digging around—you’ll find a community of hobbyists and professionals who collect old cultivars, trade scion stock, and generally celebrate the pleasures of diversity in the garden.

As for me, I might have to settle for a gooseberry bush, planted in our small front garden, far away from the parking strip.

Other links:

This Smithsonian article introduces a couple of “fruit detectives,” who have helped identify hundreds of varieties of old apple species.

http://www.smithsonianmag.com/issues/2002/november/apples.php?page=1

The toothpaste people seem to like old apples too:

http://www.tomsofmaine.com/apple/heirloom/default.asp

And of course, there are plenty of American apples in the slow food ark:

http://www.slowfoodusa.org/ark/heritage_apples.html

______________________________________

Sara Dickerman is a freelance writer and is now the food and dining editor at Seattle Magazine.  She wrote the introduction to the Bison edition of Jane Grigson's Fruit Book.

 

 

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